The “Present” of Wajima Artisans

Upon arriving in Wajima, I first had the opportunity to speak with Junko Kirimoto, the vice representative of Wajima Kirimoto. Wajima Kirimoto, which has a history as a hokiji-ya (woodworking shop), now also produces lacquerware in-house. As a Wajima lacquerware brand, they create a wide range of products, from bowls and cutlery to large furniture pieces. After the earthquake, Wajima Kirimoto received many supportive messages from across Japan and quickly restored their online store. In February, with the help of architect Shigeru Ban, they established a temporary workshop, and now they actively participate in exhibitions throughout Japan.

The Kirimoto family’s home was completely destroyed by the earthquake, but the showroom building, built in 2022, survived intact. They are currently living there while using the temporary workshop as a display space for their lacquerware. Despite their own lives being in disarray, they continue to listen to the voices of the craftsmen working in the workshop and think about what should be done each day. Junko was deeply moved by the fact that, after the earthquake, many ceramic and glassware items were broken, but the lacquerware remained intact with only minor damage. Even if chipped it can be repaired, and after a quick polish it shines again. She also remembered a friend telling her that eating something warm from a lacquer bowl when feeling tired gives one energy, which made her realize how resilient their lacquerware truly is. It was a very memorable sight to see Junko gently holding a lacquer bowl while sharing this story.

In the afternoon, we moved to the area around the Honmachi shopping street. The place had changed so drastically that after only a few visits we could hardly recall its previous appearance. Before reconstruction can begin, the burnt houses must first be removed, and it seems that it will take at least another year or two to complete this work. The harsh reality left me at a loss for words. In particular, I felt a profound sense of loss when I saw that the main store of the lacquerware shop Tohachiya, where I had my first encounter with Wajima lacquerware, was reduced to a vacant lot with only a utility pole sign remaining.

We parked our car in a lot near the Honmachi shopping street for our next destination of Aizawa Wood Works, a woodworking shop that also operates as a kiji-ya. Aizawa Wood Works opened a showroom just before the earthquake. When I visited Wajima last September, I had the chance to see the nearly finished interior, and I felt a sense of new possibilities for Wajima in the beauty of the showroom. Fortunately, this showroom did not suffer significant damage, and I was able to touch and experience many of their original woodcraft products. The Aizawas expressed the hope that, especially during these times, locals and people visiting for reconstruction support can stop by the showroom to find a place of comfort, even if only for a brief moment. The adjacent woodworking studio did suffer damage, but production has now recovered to about 60% of its pre-earthquake level, and they are actively working on creating new products. For the region’s recovery, such vitality is essential, and I look forward to following their future endeavors.

The aforementioned Tohachiya, a nushi-ya or workshop of lacquer artisans, has been producing durable Wajima lacquerware for restaurants for many years. The main store in the Honmachi shopping street was severely damaged by fire, but the lacquer work has resumed at their workshop in Yamamoto-cho. Due to the earthquake it has become increasingly difficult to source materials from Wajima’s woodcraft suppliers, forcing them to procure wood from other regions, which has made me realize the challenges of the traditional style of lacquerware made through a series of distinct steps.

Finally, I would like to touch on Taya Shikki, a shop that has been passed on to a new young president. Although Taya Shikki is a workshop of lacquer artisans, they are actively working to revitalize Wajima lacquerware from a fresh perspective, utilizing crowdfunding campaigns and opening the Wajima lacquerware-themed restaurant “CRAFEAT” in Kanazawa. The decision to undergo a generational change immediately after the earthquake seems to have been a significant one. The new representative, Takahiro Taya, now based in Kanazawa, continues to collaborate with Wajima artisans and promote Wajima lacquerware both domestically and internationally. It is a valuable opportunity to spread the charm of Wajima lacquerware from Kanazawa, a city that attracts many foreign tourists, and much anticipation surrounds his future activities.

The long road to the city’s reconstruction

“Reconstruction” does not mean simply returning to the previous state, but rather signifies the revival of vitality in the area. The road to reconstruction is long and arduous, as currently it is expected to take 1 to 2 years just to demolish and remove the collapsed buildings. The former Honmachi shopping street once featured a beautiful landscape lined with traditional Japanese houses, but under current fire safety regulations, it is not possible to rebuild the same type of buildings in their original form. The area must be reorganized and redeveloped into a new town, which will likely require difficult decisions for each home and business. Depending on the new living environment, some may have to give up the lifestyle they once had, and there are various challenges that must be addressed for the reconstruction.

As a whole, the city must also consider industries other than lacquerware, such as fishing and tourism. Wajima Port, once the economic center of the area, suffered severe damage due to the earthquake, which caused an uplift of the seabed. It was not until the end of October 2024, more than six months after the earthquake, that fish were shipped from this port. Many inns and ryokan were also affected, and as of the end of October accommodations for general travelers were still limited. Under such circumstances it may not be appropriate to use the term “tourism,” but even so, the recovery of Wajima cannot happen without visitors. Even if the earthquake had not occurred, the population had been in ongoing decline, and without visitors from outside the town’s vibrancy will only fade further. At the very least, people who wish to learn about the situation in the affected area and contribute in some way must be welcomed. It will be necessary to continue sharing information about the status of accommodations and dining options to encourage such support.

Noto is a land rich not only in traditional industries but also in abundant food ingredients and beautiful landscapes. However, its transportation network is far from ideal. While it is possible to travel from Tokyo to Noto by airplane, it takes about three hours by car to reach Kanazawa, the prefectural capital, and the roads are limited. I heard that some people have moved their homes to Kanazawa after the earthquake and commute to Wajima every day, but the burden on them must be considerable. In terms of the city’s recovery, there are limits to what can be done locally, and cooperation and collaboration between regions are essential. Rather than closing off the city as a disaster area, it will be crucial to work together with people from outside, sharing ideas and wisdom.

Connecting Wajima lacquerware

Wajima lacquerware is a craft produced through specialized divisions of labor, but many of the artisans are independent business owners. Now, with the region affected by the disaster, if any one of the craftsmen, such as the nushi lacquerers, kijishi woodworkers, maki-e artists, or toolmakers ceases their work, it has a significant impact on the entire production process. After the earthquake, donations from across the country were gathered with the aim of saving traditional crafts, but it is hoped that support will reach not only the overall framework but also the individual activities of each artisan.

The charm of Wajima lacquerware lies in its “nuno-kise” technique, which reinforces the wood base by pasting it with hemp or cotton cloth and adds strength through applying multiple layers of lacquer. As a result, even if the lacquer gets scratched, it can be repaired and used repeatedly. Its durability remains unshaken, even in such harsh conditions, and Wajima Kirimoto has started an initiative to collect and restore old lacquerware by applying new layers of lacquer. It is precisely because of this situation that the effort to return to the origins of Wajima lacquerware and evolve it into the future reflects the spirit of the people of Noto, who have long faced the rough waves of the Japan Sea.

Living with the land

We believe that the charm of Japanese crafts stems from the diverse fudo, or climates and landscapes of different regions of Japan, and we continue to promote this charm internationally. Many people around the world are captivated by the richness of Japanese culture and the country’s nature, and such interest is only increasing. However, nature is not only beautiful — it can also be unpredictable. There are events that occur outside of human control, and the threats posed by nature sometimes drastically change people’s lives. Even so, we continue to live in the land we love because we have not forgotten the blessings we receive from nature, and it is the unique qualities of that land that make it special to us.

The scenery of the disaster-stricken area was painful and sad to see, but still, the grandeur of nature and the beauty of the sturdy lacquerware born from it remain unchanged. Through this visit, I have grown even fonder of Wajima lacquerware. Everything I saw and everything I described here, I will never forget. And once again, I vow to visit Noto, a place full of the brightness of its people.

Photos by Takuma Suda